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NVQ Horse Care - Level 2 notes

Notes that may help anyone going for their BHS Stage 1 exam or doing their NVQ level 1 or 2 in Horse Care and Riding
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NVQ Horse Care - Level 2 notes

Post by TracingEquines »

This topic consists of stable management notes, that I took when studying for my NVQ Horse Care - Level 2 exam (back in 1996-1998), and is intended to help people studying for exams or anyone wishing to learn more about looking after horses. On the syllabus, the writing in blue coincides with the appropriate article in this section.

I think I still need to type up units 11 and 12

NVQ Horse Care - Level 2

Units 6 - 12 Compulsory, Plus Either 13 or 14 or 15 - 17

* * * * * * * * * *

Unit 6 - Providing Routine Care

Element 6.1 - Select and Provide Food and Water

Element 6.2 - Apply and Fit Horse Clothing

Danger Of A Dusty Environment

Feed Requirements

Rugs


* * * * * * * * * *

Unit 7 - Preparing Horses For Use

Element 7.1 - Improve The Appearance Of A Horse

Element 7.2 - Clean and Groom Horses

Element 7.3 - Carry Out Pre and Post Exercise Preparations

Pulling Manes and Tails

Trimming

Plaiting

Grooming Procedure

Grooming


* * * * * * * * * *

Unit 8 - Determining Health and Condition

Element 8.1 - Present Horse For Health Care

Element 8.2 - Assess Horse For Health

Element 8.3 - Recognise Simple Lameness

Element 8.4 - Recognise Health Problems

Trotting Up

How To Recognise Lameness

Temperature, Pulse, Respiration


* * * * * * * * * *

Unit 9 - Working Horse From The Ground

Element 9.1 - Present Horse For Routine Inspection

Element 9.2 - Exercise A Quiet Horse From The Ground

Lungeing - Written In Note Form

* * * * * * * * * *

Unit 10 - Contribute To Providing Grass and Water For Grazing Animals

Element 10.1 - Provide Grass and Water For Grazing Livestock

Element 10.2 - Maintain Environment For Grazing Livestock

Extra Questions

Poisonous Plants and Trees


* * * * * * * * * *

Unit 11 - Assisting With Transportation Of Horses

Element 11.1 - Prepare Vehicle For Transporting Horses

Element 11.2 - Load and Unload Horses For Transportation By Road

* * * * * * * * * *

Unit 12 - Develop and Maintain Personal Effectiveness

Element 12.1 - Establish and Maintain Good Relationships With Other People At Work

Element 12.2 Managing and Developing Self

* * * * * * * * * *

Optional Units

Group A - (Equitation)

Unit 13 - Riding Horses

Element 13.1 - Ride Horses On The Road

Element 13.2 - Maintain Control Of Horse When Jumping

Element 13.3 - Ride A Schooled Horse

Group B - (Driving)

Unit 14 - Assisting With Working Horses On The Land

Element 14.1 - Hitch Up and Adjust Harness For Work

Element 14.2 - Work Horse In Harness

Group C (Breeding)

Unit 15 - Assisting With Instigating Reproduction

Element 15.1 - Assist In Teasing and Covering

Element 15.2 - Keep Simple Stud Records

Unit 16 - Assisting With Providing Parturition Care

Element 16.1 - Give Basic Assistance Towards Foaling

Unit 17 - Assisting With Rearing Young Stock

Element 17.1 - Assist In Handling Mare and Foal
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Re: NVQ Horse Care - Level 2 notes

Post by TracingEquines »

Unit 6 - Providing Routine Care

Element 6.1 - Select and provide food and water

1. List the rules of good feeding

* Feed little and often
* Feed plenty of bulk (hay, haylage, silage, chop/chaff etc)
* Feed according to age, temperament, work being done and size
* Make no sudden changes to the diet
* Keep to a regular feeding time
* Feed good quality and clean fodder only
* Feed something succulent every day
* Do not feed immediately before and after exercise
* Always water before feeding
* Keep feed utensils and mangers clean
* Never travel after a full feed

3. Describe how you would prepare the above and how could you feed them

This photo shows Sugar beet pellets after a 24 hour soaking

Horse and pony nuts and mix can be fed straight from the bag

Barley must be cooked before feeding to prevent colic. Barley is cooked by covering the whole barley grains with boiling water, using upto 1lb (450g) per horse. It is brought to the boil and then simmered for 4-6 hours

Sugar beet must always be soaked before feeding, to prevent colic. The cubes or pellets should be soaked for 24 hours using the ratio of 1 part sugar beet to 3 parts water. The shreds should be soaked for at least 12 hours using the ratio of 1 part sugar beet to 2 parts water

Oats may be fed whole but they are easier to digest if they are bruised, rolled or crushed

Hay, haylage and chop/chaff are fed in the state they arrive in. Hay may need to be soaked if it is to be fed to a horse with a dust allergy. Hay and haylage can be fed in a haynet or from off the floor. Chop/chaff is fed in with the concentrates at mealtimes

4. Comment on typical feeding habits and behaviour at feeding time

At feed times, the horses have their heads over the door with their ears pricked. Some start to bang on the stable doors or scrape the floor. Others whinny as soon as they see someone going near their stable

5. Why are hygiene and cleanliness important in the storage, preparation and serving of feed and forage ?

The hygiene and cleanliness is important because -

* It helps to prevent disease
* Horses are selective eaters and some will not eat out of feed bowls that have got remains of their last meal in them
* To present a good impression on visitors
* Some horses will not drink out of dirty water buckets or drink water that is a few hours old
* To keep areas safe and to be minimizing the risk of any accidents happening

Element 6.2 - Apply and fit horse clothing

1. List some typical everyday types of rugs and their uses

A sweat rug is used a, after exercise if the horse is hot and sweaty. It helps soak up the sweat and cool him down quicker. In some cases, a summer sheet may be needed over the top of a sweat rug so that the horse doesn't become cold. b, If the horse has been out and has got wet. c, When travelling; the sweat rug helps to absorb moisture and the summer sheet helps keep the horse cool. Some sweat rugs don't require a summer sheet over the top

A stable rug (see photo above) is used when the horse is in the stable to keep him warm

A New Zealand (see photo above) is worn in cooler weather to keep the horse warm, in the field, and to protect him from the elements of the weather

2. State the different methods and possible advantages/disadvantages of securing rugs

Different methods of securing rugs are -

* Front straps
* Cross surcingles
* Front leg straps
* Hind leg straps
* A fillet string
* Roller
* A single surcingle

Legs straps and cross surcingles are an advantage on a New Zealand rug as they keep the rug in place and straight without causing pressure on the horse's spine

All rugs, apart from exercise sheets, have front straps to stop the rug from slipping back and off of the horse's back

3. Why do we use stable bandages ?

Stable bandages are used to improve circulation in the leg, provide protection and for support. They are, also, used to help warm and dry cold, wet legs

4. Why is it important that bandages are put on safely and correctly ?

If bandages are put on too tightly, they can cause ringed marks on the legs, damage the tendons and restrict the blood flow

If bandages are put on too loosely, they can unwrap and the horse may get his legs caught in them, causing him to harm himself

5. What may be applied under the bandages ?

Gamgee or Fibregee may be applied under stable bandages to help even the pressure out and for added warmth and protection

6. What are the methods of securing bandages ?

The methods of securing bandages are tapes, which are tied together in a knot or bow on the outside of the leg, and velcro
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Re: NVQ Horse Care - Level 2 notes

Post by TracingEquines »

Danger Of A Dusty Environment

Allergic Coughs

Some horses are allergic to the fungal or other spores in hay and straw and will cough soon after you take them into a stable

To avoid this, use shavings or paper bedding, and feed vacuum-packed forage or hay which has been soaked for at least 24 hours and then drained. Hay or straw near to the stable can also be a cause of coughs

Broken Wind known as "Chronic Obstructive Pulmonary Disease" may result from working a horse with a cough, especially one caused by allergies
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Re: NVQ Horse Care - Level 2 notes

Post by TracingEquines »

Feed Requirements

There are several ways to work out how much feed a horse or pony requires. Here is an example of two of them

Method One

Girth (squared) X Length (divided by) 2.2 = Horse's weight
300

Appetite = 2.5 X Horse's weight = Amount of feed required
100

If the measurements are taken in inches, the results will be in pounds. If the measurements are taken in centimetres (cm), the results will be in kilograms. To convert pounds into kilograms, take 1 kilogram to equal 2.2 pounds

Method Two

(Height x 2) - 2 = Amount of feed required in pounds

The amount of feed required is split into a concentrate ration and a forage ration. This is decided on the level of work the horse is doing.

Work - Forage (bulk) - Concentrates

Maintenance - 80 % - 20 % max

Light - 60 % - 40 %

Medium - 50 % - 50 %

Hard - 30 % - 70 %

Very Fast - 25 % * - 75 % max

* Needs fibre for system to work
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Re: NVQ Horse Care - Level 2 notes

Post by TracingEquines »

Rugs

Taking Rugs Off

To take a rug off, you should
  • Tie the horse up
    Unfasten the cross surcingles and loosely knot them
    Unfasten any leg straps and re-fasten them (but not round the horse's legs)
    Undo the front straps
    Fold the front of the rug over the back
    Place your left hand over the centre-front and your right hand over the centre-back
    Sweep the rug backwards, gently, over the horse's hindquarters


Storing Rugs

Rugs should be stored in a cool dry place with all the straps done up, preferably hung up on a rug rack

If a New Zealand rug is wet, it should be placed over a couple of chairs to allow it to dry off completely, both on the inside and the outside. When it is dry, it should be stored in a cool, dry place
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Re: NVQ Horse Care - Level 2 notes

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Unit 7 - Preparing Horses For Use

Element 7.1 - Improve the appearance of a horse

1. How should the mane be prepared for plaiting ?

The mane should be pulled and trimmed so that it is all the same length

2. What equipment is required to plait a horse's mane or tail ?

A water brush or sponge
A mane comb
A needle, with a large eye
Thread - the same colour as the mane and tail
Bands - the same colour as the mane and tail
A pair of scissors

Element 7.2 - Clean and groom horses

1. List the contents of a typical grooming kit and for what purpose each may be used

A hoof pick is used to remove packed in dirt and stones from the horse's hooves
A dandy brush is used to remove grease and dirt from the coat
A body brush is used to remove grease and dirt from the coat
A metal curry comb is used to remove grease from the body brush
A rubber curry comb is used to remove grease from the coat
A plastic curry comb is used to remove dry mud and the loose winter/summer coat during moulting
A comb is used to remove tangles from the forelock, mane and tail
A water brush is used to apply water to any area of the horse, where water is required

Sponges are used to wash the horse's eye, nostrils and dock area. Separate sponges must be used for each area to avoid the spread of disease

2. What differences may there be between choice of brush for field or stable kept horses and for seasonal variables ?

A grass/field kept requires grooming with a dandy brush over his body, a body brush on his face, mane and tail and a hoof pick to pick out his feet. A body brush is not used on his body as this removes the natural oils and grease, from the coat, the horse uses as his protection against the elements of the weather

A stable kept horse can be groomed with a dandy brush, body brush and a hoof pick. If the horse is clipped, a body brush should be used on the clipped area because a dandy brush is too harsh

In winter, wet mud should be left to dry on its own or washed off with water as brushing it off may cause skin irritation

Element 7.3 - Carry out pre and post exercise preparations

These photos show a horse tacked up using a snaffle bridle, breastplate martingale, general purpose saddle and brushing boots all round and left safely tacked up in preparation for an organised hack.

1. How would you fit

a, A snaffle bridle ?
b, A general purpose saddle ?
c, A lunge cavesson, with side reins and saddle/roller ?

a, I would fit a snaffle bridle by making sure the throatlash comes no lower than half way down the cheek bone, checking that the browband does not pinch the horse's ears and allowing the noseband to lie two fingers below the projecting cheek bone. The bit should lie so that the horse is not smiling too much and there is about 1/4 (quarter) inch of the bit showing on either side of the mouth

b, First I would take off the numnah. Then I check that the saddle was not going to put pressure on the spine with or without a rider by checking there is a clear passage way through the channel over the spine. I also check that the saddle lies flat on the horse's back, that there is no weight on the loins and that the tree is the correct width for the horse

c, A lunge cavesson should fit snugly and so that no other item of tack can allow it to move freely. The side reins are measured so that when the horse is lunged, he works in an outline and engages his hindquarters. The roller is placed on the horse's back so that the pads rest on either side of the spine and it is done up in the same way as a girth is on a saddle

2. Why is it important that the above are fitted correctly ?

It is important for the horse's tack to fit correctly because badly fitting tack is dangerous for the horse and rider, can cause unnecessary pain and injury to the horse and look sloppy and untidy to anyone looking at it

3. List a variety of boots and how they fit.

Brushing boots protect the inside of the cannon bone and the fetlock joint
Hock boots protect the hock
Knee boots protect the knee
Over-reach boots are used to prevent injury, to the heel area, from the hind toes
Travelling boots protect the horse's legs when he is travelling
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Re: NVQ Horse Care - Level 2 notes

Post by TracingEquines »

Pulling Manes & Tails

Manes

Manes are pulled to make them neat, tidy, easy to manage and short and thin enough to plait

The hair will come out more easily when the horse is warm and the pores are open

If the horse has a very long and thick mane, the hair should be removed over a period of several days, otherwise the horse will become sore and irritable

Comb the mane to remove tangles. Hold a few of the long hairs between thumb and finger, while pushing back the shorter hairs with the comb. Wrap the long hairs around the comb, then give the comb a quick tug. The long hairs should come out by the roots

Work gradually up and down the mane, removing long hairs and trying to keep the mane level

Tails

Tails are pulled to give the top a neat appearance, which also helps to show off the hindquarters to their best advantage

If the horse has not had its tail pulled before, it may kick if it finds the process uncomfortable. Stand the horse with its hindquarters backed up to its stable door, while you stand on the other side for protection

Remove the hairs gradually over a period of days

Use comb and fingers to remove a few hairs at a time (in the same way as pulling the mane) from either side of the dock

Work from top approximately 7 - 7 1/4 (one quarter) down each side

Finish by putting on a tail bandage for a short period of time. This will encourage the hairs to lie flat
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Re: NVQ Horse Care - Level 2 notes

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Trimming

Use blunt, curved-ended scissors for trimming to prevent injury to the horse

Make a bridle path by cutting away a section of mane approximately 1 1/2 (half) inches just behind the ears where the bridle headpiece will sit. Use a comb to make a neat parting between mane and forelock prior to cutting

About 3 - 4 " of mane over the withers may be trimmed away if it is inclined to get tangled under the saddle and numnah

To trim the end of the tail, first check the required length by asking an assistant to place a hand under the dock, lifting the tail to simulate the position in which the horse will carry it when moving. Then trim the bottom of the tail parallel to the ground so that it hangs approximately 4 " below the point of hock. This is known as a banged tail
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Re: NVQ Horse Care - Level 2 notes

Post by TracingEquines »

Plaiting

The Mane

A short, well-pulled mane will make plaiting easier

You will need needle, thread and scissors or plaiting bands, a stool to stand on, water and water brush to damp the mane and a comb

Through trial and error, you will discover how much mane to take for each plait. As a rough guide, use the width of your mane comb to measure each section

Using plaiting bands, divide the mane into even-sized bunches. The number of plaits will depend unpon the length of the horse's neck, the size of each plait and the thickness of the mane

Push the comb into the mane to keep the loose hair out of the way

Start at the poll and work back towards the withers. Damp the first section of the mane, then divide it into three even sections and plait to the end. Keep the plait tight

Secure the end of the plait with a plaiting band, or with thread. Use the thread doubled with a knot in the end

If using bands, roll up the plait and secure it as tightly as possible with a second band

If using thread, fold the plait in half, by taking the bottom up to the top, and stitch together. Fold again and then once more (depending on the length of the plait), securing the fold with a stitch each time

Finish off by winding the thread once or twice around the base of the plait, then draw the thread through the whole plait and cut the thread off

Do not trim off any protruding wisps of hair. This will ruin the mane, leaving it uneven and spiky when not plaited

It is customary to have an uneven number of plaits in the mane plus one forelock plait

The Tail

Brush and comb the tail, then thoroughly damp the hair to be plaited

Take a small section of hair from the top at either side and a small section from the middle, giving you three sections to begin plaiting with

Progress down the dock, taking small sections of hair from either side and adding them to your plait

Keep the plait very tight

When you reach the end of the dock, make one long plait from the remaining lengths of hair

Secure the end of the plait with thread or a plaiting band. Double it up to make a loop, securing it with thread or plaiting bands at the end of the main dock plait
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Re: NVQ Horse Care - Level 2 notes

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Grooming Procedure

1. Place the headcollar on the horse and tie him up

2. Pick out the feet and check that the shoe has not become loose in the night

3. Using the dandy brush or rubber curry comb, remove all caked dirt and sweat marks etc. Begin at the poll on the near side, of the horse, and work gradually over the rest of the horse

4. Using a body brush, start at the poll, on the near side and work over the rest of the horse. The body brush is used to get right through the coat

5. Using the body brush, do the mane. Then, after placing the headcollar around the horse's neck and unfastening the lead rope, brush the horse's head by following the way his coat lies. After replacing the headcollar and fastening the lead rope, his tail can be brushed

6. Sponge the eyes and muzzle, then, with another sponge, do the horse's dock

7. Then replace the rug, if there is one, and untie the horse

Only carry out number 4, if the horse is in at night
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