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NVQ Horse Care - Level 2 notes

Notes that may help anyone going for their BHS Stage 1 exam or doing their NVQ level 1 or 2 in Horse Care and Riding
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Re: NVQ Horse Care - Level 2 notes

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Grooming

Reasons for grooming

To clean the horse thoroughly, this stimulates circulation and promotes health
To improve the appearance of the horse
To help the prevention of disease
To help build a relationship with the horse

The Grooming Kit

Hoof Pick
For removing packed in dirt and stones from the hoof. Use from the heel towards the toe to prevent the point of the hoof pick accidentally digging into the frog or heels

Dandy Brush
For removing dry mud from the coat. Usually used on unclipped, less-sensitive parts of the body and on the legs if care is taken not to knock the bony parts of the limbs. The dandy brush should not be used on the mane and tail as it will break the hairs. Use in short, firm strokes

Body Brush
For removing grease and dust from the coat. Generally used on stable-kept horse, all over the body, including the mane and tail. Used more sparingly on the grass-kept horse as it needs to keep the grease in its coat to protect it from the weather. Being soft, it is the best brush to use on the horse's face and any other sensitive areas. It is used in conjunction with the metal curry comb. When using the body brush on the near side of the horse, hold it in your left hand, and in your right hand when on the off side. This enables you to put more strength into the slightly semi-circular movement with which the brush should be firmly applied

Metal Curry Comb
For removing grease from the body brush. It is never used on the horse. After each stroke, the body brush should be drawn across the curry comb which is held in the opposite hand. The grease is then knocked from the curry comb by tapping it on the ground

Rubber Curry Comb
For removing grease from the coat. Normally used on stable-kept horses, all over the body. Firmly applied in small circles, against the lie of the hair, it brings the grease to the surface

Plastic Curry Comb
For removing mud and the loose winter coat during moulting. It is generally used on grass-kept horses, all over the body. It should not be used on the mane and tail as it will break the hairs. It can be used in any kind of stroke necessary to remove the mud and loose coat. Also used to clean the body brush, it makes a good and safe substitute for the metal curry comb, especially for children

Mane Comb
For removing tangles from the mane. It may also be used on the tail. It is used in a simple combing action, taking a small portion of hair at a time. The smaller combs with short teeth are for mane pulling

Stable Rubber
For removing dust from the surface of the horse's coat after grooming. It can be used all over the horse, just like a duster

Wisp / Massage Pad
For improving muscle tone. It can be used on muscular areas, mainly on the topline of the horse, for example on the trapezius muscle of the neck and the muscles of the hindquarters. It is used in conjunction with a stable rubber. The horse should be able to see the wisp being "banged" down. The muscle area is then relaxed by a stroke with the stable rubber. These two action are repeated in a steady rhythm, cause the horse alternatively to tense and relax the muscles, which helps to tone them up. The wisp should not be used violently. The "bang" should be firm enough to cause the horse to tense but not so hard that it causes pain or fear. Take care to avoid bony areas like the hsoulder blade or you will bruise and damage the underlying structures

Grooming Mitt
For removing grease and dust from the horse's coat. It can be used on any part of the horse's body, including the head. A mitt is generally made of cactus cloth or rubber. Both types are stroked firmly over the body or used in a circular or to and fro action to remove dried sweat, mud etc. The rubber type will lift grease to the surface, while the cactus cloth type will lift off surface grease/dust and help to create a shine on the coat

Cactus Cloth
Has the same use as the grooming mitt described above, but is in the form of a duster-sized cloth

Water Brush
For applying water to the coat/mane/tail in order to lay the hair or to wash it. It can be used on any part of the horse, including the feet

Sponges
For washing the horse's eyes, nostrils and under the dock. You should have two separate sponges, one for each area, in different colours to avoid confusion

Appropriate Tools for Grooming

A grass-kept pony requires grooming with a dandy brush over his body and legs, a body brush on his face, mane and tails and a hoof pick to pick out his feet

A body brush is not used on a grass-kept pony, on his body as it removes the natural oils and grease in the horse's coat that the horse uses as his protection against the elements of the weather

A stable-kept horse can be groomed with a dandy brush, body brush and a hoof pick

If the horse is clipped, a dandy brush should not be used on the clipped area of the horse. A body brush should be used instead

Safety and Care of Grooming Kit

The grooming kits should be kept in a safe place, in some form of box to keep it all together

For the purpose of hygiene it should be washed out at least once a week. Make sure that at least one brush is kept dry to brush the horses off with because it take a while for them to dry off

Wash the brushes in warm soapy water. Place them in the water with the wood pointing out and the bristles in. Use your hand to get the muck and grease out of the brushes. Place them face down to dry off

Keep the grooming kit safe when grooming the horse. Do not put it anywhere where the horse is going to tread in it. Make sure you always put the hoof pick back in the grooming kit. Do not put it in your pocket by mistake. Don't put it down on the horse's bed either

Make sure any sponges for eyes, nose and dock are washed after each use. Also try to have a different sponge for each eye, then infections are not spread as easily
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Re: NVQ Horse Care - Level 2 notes

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Unit 8 - Determining Health & Condition

Element 8.1 - Present horse for health care

1. What are the reasons for health and soundness inspections ?

A soundness inspection is carried out to find out if the horse is lame in any of its legs. A health inspection is used to find out if the horse is its normal self

2. List the possible methods of restraint and dangers involved

The horse is tied up = The horse may pull back
An extra person holds up a leg
Twitch (as a last resort) = The twitch may be used incorrectly and not work

3. How would you move a horse to ascertain health and soundness ?

I would trot up a horse to ascertain soundness

Element 8.2 - Assess horse for health

1. What are the signs of good/bad health ?

The skin is supple and when pinched returns to normal leaving no trace
The eyes are bright and have salmon pink membranes
The coat is not staring
The horse is not resting his front legs
The horse is alert and happy, not distressed
The horse is acting normally with regards to food, water, droppings and bedding
The ears are pricked and moving when talked to
There is no discharge from the horse's nose or eyes etc
The horse has no unusual bumps or any cuts

Element 8.3 - Recognise simple lameness

1. How would you assess the horse for a simple lameness ?

To assess a horse for simple lameness, I would -

Check for any cuts, lumps, heat or swelling in the leg
Trot the horse up, checking for an uneveness in the gait

2. What are possible treatments for simple lameness ?

Box rest until sound
Cold hose, dry and bandage - if the lower leg is swollen

3. What are the rules for sick nursing ?

The horse should be checked frequently to make sure there is no deterioration in its condition, but visits should cause minimum disturbance to the horse

Regular checks of T.P.R. should be wrote down as well as other general points to do with its condition e.g. how much it is eating, if he is lying down more etc

Remove droppings frequent and keep the bed level, If the horse has limited movement, use the deep litter system instead of mucking him out

Keep the stable free from draughts and well ventilated

Keep horse warm, using light quilted rugs and leg bandages

Pick out feet, sponge eyes, nose and dock area daily. Lightly groom the horse, keeping him as warm as possible

Bandages should be removed daily and the legs massaged to improve circulation

Monitor the horse's water intake and keep the supply very fresh

Give light, tempting, laxative feeds. Remove stale feed frequently as this will discourage the horse from eating and possibly delay its recovery

Follow veterinary instructions carefully

If it is an eye injury, keep the stable darkened and avoid bright lights

Unless the vet advises not to, give an ad lib supply of hay

Element 8.4 - Recognise health problems

1. What are the normal Temperature, Pulse and Respiration rates of a horse at rest ?

Temperature - 38 C or between 100.5 - 101 F
Pulse - 36-42 beats a minute
Respiration - 8-15 breaths a minute

2. For six health problems of your choice, list simple observations (signs/symptoms) and their basic treatment. Include in this answer two lameness', two types of injury and two examples of illness

Laminitis (lameness)
Symptoms are the horse will stand on his heels with his feet thrust forward and be reluctant to move. Treatment is to put the horse on a diet that has little nutritional value and to remove the cause of the laminitis

Mud Fever (lameness)
Symptoms are scabs on the leg. Treatment is to keep the legs clean and dry and to treat the scabs and infection with the appropriate medical solution

Girth Galls (injury)
Symptoms are sores and/or swellings on the soft skin of the girth area. Treatment is to keep the area clean and dry and to not use a saddle until the gall is healed and the swelling has gone down and is painless

Puncture Wound (injury)
Symptoms are a small swelling/scab/cut that is very painful to touch. Treatment is to keep the area clean and to allow the cut to heal from the inside to the out. The vet may need to be called

Colic (illness)
Symptoms are restlessness, kicking at his belly, lying down and getting up, rolling, possible sweating and a general uneasiness. Treatment is to call the vet and remove all objects from the immediate area, supply a good deep bed, make a note of his symptoms and whether he passes any droppings and whether he is constipated or has diarrhea

Sweet Itch (illness)
Symptoms are the horse itching his mane and tail area a lot. Treatment is to apply benzyl-benzoate . Keep the horse in during dusk and dawn and to call the vet

3. What is the importance of good observation and accurate reporting ?

To provide the vet with information about the horse that might help him to find the problem and be able to treat it effectively
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Re: NVQ Horse Care - Level 2 notes

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Trotting Up

Trotting up is when a horse is trotted up and down a level area of ground to see if he is lame

Equipment for the horse

The horse should wear nothing to hamper his natural action or the way he moves. He should be trotted up wearing a bridle, or a headcollar, or in some extreme cases both

Equipment for the handler

A hard hat, gloves, sensible footwear and clothing should be worn to lessen the risk of serious injury being caused to the handler
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Re: NVQ Horse Care - Level 2 notes

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How To Recognise Lameness

When lame in a front limb/foot, the horse will be reluctant to put its weight on the lame leg. In order to keep as much weight as possible off this leg, the horse will raise its head up as it puts this leg to the ground. When it puts its sound leg to the ground, it will put extra weight on it and drop its head down as it does so

Walking straight towards you, on firm, level ground, you may observe the head and neck of the sound horse bobbing gently in rhythm with the walk. Trotting straight towards you, the head and neck of the sound horse will be held level

If you watch the head and neck of a horse that is lame in a front limb, in either walk or trot, you will notice it raise its head high when the lame leg comes to the ground and drop its head low when the sound leg comes to the ground

The extent to which the horse raises and lowers its head will depend upon the degree of lameness, varying from a slight nod to a very pronounced movement up and down

Hind leg lameness can be more difficult to detect. Watching a sound horse from behind, the hindquarters should rise and fall evenly as the horse walk or trots away from you on a straight line

A horse that is lame behind will drop one quarter lower and raise one quarter higher. This may be difficult to see if the lameness is only slight
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Re: NVQ Horse Care - Level 2 notes

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Temperature, Pulse, Respiration

Temperature - 38 C or between 100.5-101 F

* A high temperature may indicate fever
* A low temperature may indicate a loss of blood or starvation

A temperature is took by placing a thermometer in the horse's anus for a minute. It is advisable to clean the thermometer before reading it. A normal temperature reading is taken over a couple of days

Pulse - 36-42 beats a minute

* A high pulse indicates a fever or that the horse has just been exercised
* A low pulse indicates disease

A pulse is quicker on a small pony and varies depending on the horse's age and fitness. Count for 15 seconds and then times by four. The horse's pulse can be found on the jaw and leg, wherever an artery passes over bone

Respiration - 8-15 breaths a minute

* A high respiration rate indicates illness or fever

It is faster in a pony and slower in a fit horse. A breath is an "in and out". This is seen by standing in front of or behind the horse
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Re: NVQ Horse Care - Level 2 notes

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Unit 9 - Working Horses From The Ground

Element 9.1 - Present horse for routine inspection

1. List some safety precautions you consider important when handling and dealing with horses

If the horse is in the stable, he should be tied up using a quick release knot to baler twine if he is getting groomed or mucked out

When turning out, leading and catching up, gloves should be worn by the handler

Suitable clothing and footwear should be worn at all times

The horses and ponies should be treated with respect and in the appropriate manner

Element 9.2 - Exercise a quiet horse from the ground

1. What are the benefits of lungeing and long reining horses ?

The benefits of lungeing are that it is a form of exercise, 30 minutes on the lunge is equal to 1 hour ridden, it is a variation of work for the horse and it helps to see a horse's natural movement on the flat, without a saddle (if a roller is used and vice versa)

The benefits of long reining are that it prepares the horse for being driven and it teaches a young horse some of the rider's aids, to help break the horse in
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Re: NVQ Horse Care - Level 2 notes

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Lungeing (Note Form)

Position horse on long line

Person faces centre of horse, turns at a slower rate than horse

Never less than 20m circle
Never canter
Horse has to be trained

Train => leader walks on inside
Voice commands => leader helps encourage horse

Carry whip at all times
Never put yourself in trouble
On flat in field 2 sides
School no problem
Keep horse on circle
Lunge correct => full tack and side reins

Reasons why horse has boots

Work correctly cross inside legs
Inside cover less ground than outside
Cross to cover equal length
Horse more likely to strike himself

Why side reins - Encourage horse to come up from behind into a contact which gains correct outline

Front weight bearing
Back propell him forward

Must Have

Side reins
Boots
Whip

Gone above angle of control
Bit not on bars but on corners of mouth could lacerate mouth

Reasons for lungeing

1. A form of exercise

Supple horse
1 hour ridden = 30 minutes lunge

2. Schooling the young horse

Break a horse in
Roller etc, have someone with horse encouraging them
As improves handler goes up lunge line till no handler is needed
Use voice with legs teaches them that whip is not to be afraid of. Never feel need to use whip

3. To see natural ability - flat and over fences

See action
If horse free with saddle - heavy rider, leg catch elbow
Which stiff rein
Ability to jump - bascule

4. An injured horse - hurt back and want to maintain fitness

5. Variation of work - loose schooling

6. Training young rider and older rider (position)

Ideal for beginner
Handler has control of horse
Rider concentrates on position
Advanced - could have lost position

Valid, important, useful form of work for horse and rider must be done correctly - tracking up, on bit - neck arched, poll highest point, flexible at 45 degrees

Not working

Looking wrong way
Not tracking up
Head in wrong place, above angle of control
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Re: NVQ Horse Care - Level 2 notes

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Unit 10 - Contribute To Providing Grass & Water For Grazing Animals

Element 10.1 - Provide grass and water for grazing livestock

1. List and describe the most common poisonous plants

Ragwort - This has yellow flowers and green stalk and leaves

Buttercups - These are similar in colour to ragwort but are thinner at the stalk and the yellow flowers are smaller and have just one flower on each stalk

Foxgloves - These have long green stalks and big green leaves and purple flowers that are shaped similar to a bell

2. What do you consider to be normal/abnormal horse behaviour in the field ?

Normal horse behaviour in the field would be the horses grazing, looking contented and taking an interest in their surroundings

Abnormal horse behaviour in the field would be all the horses galloping round the field looking worried and distressed and the horse standing alone looking miserable

3. How would you identify palatable grass and water ?

Palatable grass contains a good growth of grass and has not many droppings on it. Palatable water is clean and fresh and free from debris

4. What are the reasons for regular worming of grazing livestock and how often should they be wormed ?

Horses are wormed regularly to maintain the condition of the horse and to keep the standard of grazing high

If the horse is not wormed regularly, the worms go through his body and are passed out through his droppings and into the grazing, where the worms can be picked up by other horses grazing in the same area

Horses should be wormed every 6-8 weeks

Element 10.2 - Maintain environment for grazing livestock

1. List types of field boundaries and their suitability

Hedges
If tough, strong and well maintained, hedges are the first choice and have the additional advantage of providing wind-breaks and shelter in all weathers. Usually country hedges are safe from poisonous plants but they should be checked, particularly for yew and deadly nightshade

Hedges in Urban Areas
Sometimes contain ornamental trees and plants, such as Laburnam, Rhodedendron and Laurel, which are poisonous. These must be fenced out of reach. Privet and Beech can also be toxic and have been known to cause problems

Post and Rails
These are the second choice, even though the cost of erecting and maintaining them is high. A modern substitute is heavy-duty plastic fencing, which is not as expensive to maintain

Electric Fencing
Electrified Fencing - preferably in the form of wide, coloured or white type - has the advantage of being easily erected and dismantled for use elsewhere, as well as being easily seen. It is undoubtly an efficient type of fencing and horses learn to respect it. if you use a length of wire, you should tie strips of plastic or material round it at regular intervals, so that it can be clearly seen

Plain Wire Fencing
All wire fencing is potentially hazardous, and therefore must always be stretched tat between the posts. Use 5 or 6 strands of plain wire, or 3 strands of barbed wire (only when necessary). The lowest strand should be not less than 50cm (1 foot 8 inches) from the ground to reduce the risk of injury. Where wire is used it is very unwise to graze horses in adjacent fields. They will inevitably bicker amongst themselves over the fence, and kicking and striking can result in very serious injury
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Re: NVQ Horse Care - Level 2 notes

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Unit 10 - Extra Questions

Element 10.1 - Provide grass and water for grazing livestock

1. Do you know why a constant supply of clean, fresh water is so important to horses ?

Water makes up over 60% of the horse's bodyweight. A constant supply of clean, fresh water should always be available as water helps the digestion, absorption and excretion of food, maintains the horse's body temperature and all other bodily functions. A horse may die within a week if he doesn't have water available for him to drink

2. What is an indication of dehydration ?

An indication of dehydration is that if a fold of the horse's skin is pinched, it is slow to flatten out

3. Would you recognise good pasture from bad ?

A good pasture contains a good growth of grass, not too many droppings, secure fencing, a well maintained shelter and a constant supply of fresh water

A bad pasture is one which has been over-grazed and contains not much grass, a large amount of droppings, a broken shelter and fencing and an unhealthy supply of water

4. Do you know the importance of keeping grassland "clean" ?

Keeping grassland "clean" ensures the health and safety of the grazing animals. This involves picking up droppings regularly (to maximise the grazing area and to promote the growth of grass), removing poisonous plants (such as Ragwort, Laburnam and Deadly Nightshade to lessen the risk of the horses eating them) and removing dangerous objects (such as broken glass, plastic bags etc)

5. Would you know how to care for grazing horses when the weather was either excessively hot or cold ?

Hot Weather

a, I would keep the horse in during the day and out at night

b, I would keep the horse out during the day taking the following precautions -

Put a fly fringe on (attached to a headcollar) the horse
Put plenty of fly repellent on (mainly round the horse's eyes, round the ears, across the back and round the tail)
Put plenty of a high factor sun cream on any white markings, on his face, to help prevent him getting sun burnt

Cold Weather

a, I would turn him out in a New Zealand rug, all the time, that was well fitting and would keep him warm

b, I would keep him in at night and limit how long the horse is turned out for. He would be turned out in a New Zealand rug

In cold weather, I would put out hay nets or piles and break any forming ice on water supplies

In both cases, I would ensure that there was plenty of shelter and water available for them

6. Do you understand the reason for worming horses regularly ?

Horses ware wormed regularly to maintain the condition of the horse and to keep the standard of grazing high. If he is not, the worms got through his body and are passed out through his droppings into the grazing and can be picked up by other horses grazing in the same area

Element 10.2 - Maintain environment for grazing livestock

1. Would you recognise unsuitable fencing ?

Unsuitable fencing is makeshift containing barbed wire, broken bits of wood held together with string etc or a dry stone wall that has crumpled to half its height in places
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Re: NVQ Horse Care - Level 2 notes

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Poisonous Plants & Trees

Poisonous trees and hedges should be fenced off and kept well cut back to prevent horses reaching them over the fence. Oak trees pose a particular problem as they drop acorns each autumn. Acorns are relished by many horses and can lead to severe cases of colic. The best policy is to avoid such fields in the autumn. Squirrels will help to clear the acorns which can also be rolled. This partly crushes them and squashes them into the ground

Poisonous plants should be pulled up before they go to seed, where possible, to prevent them from spreading. Some, like buttercups, may only be eradicated with the use of weed killers

Ragwort (see photo), the best known of plants poisonous to horses, is rarely eaten when growing providing the horse has sufficient grazing. However, when wilted or dried, it becomes more palatable although it is still poisonous. It is advisable to burn the plants after pulling them up. Hay should not be made from fields containing ragwort

Ornamental plants, trees and shrubs are likely to be poisonous. If in doubt, fence them off or remove them. Many of the poisons are accumulative. If your horse eats a plant with no apparent ill effects, it doesn't necessarily mean you should let it go on eating more

The poisonous plants most commonly found are -

Plants

Foxgloves
Bracken
Deadly and Woody Nightshade
Hemlock
Ivy
Ragwort
Buttercups

Trees

Yew
Oak
Laburnam

Hedges

Privet
Laurel
Rhododendron
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